This is a 12"L x 9"W x 5"D plastic box from a dollar store.
Only $1 and it keeps your organized and safe.
Only $1 and it keeps your organized and safe.
Also can double as a water dish in a pinch!
Monday, January 10, 2011
Transport Binder
A Transport Binder is your Road Bible.
Things that should be inside:
- Directions to your most common stops * (See bottom)
- Contacts - The names, numbers and addresses of the key figures in the rescue, who you are transporting to, the vet, the shelter, etc
- A sheet about your Transportees - I made a basic information sheet which asks the dogs name, description (EX: the blonde lab), medications, last time fed, etc
- Pencil pouch with pens and pencils
- Small planner (think dollar tree monthly cal.) so I can compare my work and rescue schedules.
* A note about the Directions - I have 4 common stops and directions to every possible combination of them. Ex: Vet → Foster, Shelter → Vet, Shelter → Foster, and all reverse directions, plus directions home from every location. {going a lot of new places? Invest in a GPS}.
The reason for the redundancy in directions is because transports can change in a heart beat. You may be planning to get the dog from the shelter and take them to the foster, but when they are unable to stand up and are shaking, they're going to the vet, and you need to know how to get there.
Germ-X Hand Sanitizer
This is one of those common sense items we might not always think of.
A small bottle of Germ-X (or other brand) hand sanitizer can really come in handy.
I use a 3 oz container and refill it from a larger bottle, this way it only takes up a small amount of space in my kit, but can always be full.
Common reasons to have this?
- You want to eat but have been handling a dog which may or may not have health conditions or is a little less then shining clean. (they're dogs, it happens)
- You had to clean up after a lil accident (see the above parentheses)
- Too many doggy kisses (again, they're dogs, it happens)
- surface cleaning (germ-x + tissue/paper towel = cleaning wipe)
Saturday, January 1, 2011
Avoiding Rookie Mistakes
Some of the most common mistakes made when transporting dogs.
1. No Leash - Always assume the dog coming to you has no collar, no leash. If this assumption is proven wrong, great! If not, Be prepared and carry some sort of lead (a slip lead, a 2 in 1, or a collar and leash big enough for the average size of your transport). Remember, a standard leash can be converted into a slip lead by putting the metal hook through the wrist strap which should create a loop much like a slip lead.
2. No cage - So, you've got the leash on the dog.... now what? Two options, to cage or not to cage. If you plan on transporting the dog in a cage, you'll need to either have a cage dropped off with the dog, borrow one from another transporter/rescuer, or have your own. Easy way to get one is to go on Craigslist (be careful to avoid scamers and always have meetings with a friend along) and look for a used one in good condition. When in doubt, go bigger. As long as the cage will fit in your car, get a larger cage, because you can put a small dog in a big cage, but just try fitting a Dane in a Doxie cage.
Not going to cage? Make sure you have some plan as to how to secure the dog in the vehicle. Some options include buckleing the wrist strap into the car, using a Carabiner hook to attach the leash to handles, seat belts, or metal hooks in the car, etc. Give enough slack on the leash so the dog can lay down comfortably, but not too much, because the last thing you want is the dog jumping into your lap while you're trying to drive.
3. Unsecured dog! - All it takes is one mistake... ALWAYS have the dog secured. I normally have one lead which secures the dog, and one which walks them so I NEVER have the dog off a lead. Opening the back hatch of a car or a door can be one of the most precarious points in a transport because the dog can slip under/through and is GONE if it is not in some way secured to the car. Think you can catch the dog? Have you seen a herding dog run? Don't risk it, always have the dog secured so even if you open the hatch and walk away, that dog is going NO WHERE. My second transport reminded me of this lesson because the leash I had him secured on was meant for a tiny dog and was cheap (thank you $1 store) and when his 40+ pounds of dog leapt out of the back hatch, he broke the cheap hook like I had tied him up with dental floss. Lucky me, the ping scared him and he paused and stared at me. After watching him play, later on, I realized how BAD that could have been if he had decided to run instead of freeze. Assume your dog is an escape artist, plan accordingly, and you probably wont have a problem.
Also, opening cage doors can be a rough point. Prevent escapes by locking the leash through the cage door (with plenty of slack) so you can have the leash on your wrist before you ever begin to open the door.
4. No Blanket/Sheet - If you are going to be transporting a dog outside of a crate (roaming the car) put down a sheet! Why? Well, crates are an enclosed environment where dogs do not want to eliminate because then they'd have to be close to it and/or stand in it. The open back of your car? Not so enclosed. Thus, put down a sheet (and possibly a tarp under it) to protect your car from possible accidents. This also makes cleaning up fur much easier!
5. Know your Doggy History - if you are transporting dogs who have not been socialized together successfully, or you are unsure if they have been socialized together successfully, put them in crates (not wire cages, not free in the car). Just because they seem to get along when you load them in the car does NOT mean they wont decide to hate each other right after you hit 60mph on the high way and start a fight. Crates keep the dogs from snapping or scratching at each other during the ride. Also, if you discover the dogs want to growl through the bars/vents at each other, think tweety bird and put a sheet/towel up to block their view.
6. "Ponies need food" - Please view the following clip to understand the concept of "ponies need food" That being said, it is always good to know when the dog last ate, was medicated (and when they should receive their next medication if they are on meds), went potty, etc so when they are dropped off you can let their new foster/owner know. Especially important if they are being transported to a vet for a procedure, like being fixed.
1. No Leash - Always assume the dog coming to you has no collar, no leash. If this assumption is proven wrong, great! If not, Be prepared and carry some sort of lead (a slip lead, a 2 in 1, or a collar and leash big enough for the average size of your transport). Remember, a standard leash can be converted into a slip lead by putting the metal hook through the wrist strap which should create a loop much like a slip lead.
2. No cage - So, you've got the leash on the dog.... now what? Two options, to cage or not to cage. If you plan on transporting the dog in a cage, you'll need to either have a cage dropped off with the dog, borrow one from another transporter/rescuer, or have your own. Easy way to get one is to go on Craigslist (be careful to avoid scamers and always have meetings with a friend along) and look for a used one in good condition. When in doubt, go bigger. As long as the cage will fit in your car, get a larger cage, because you can put a small dog in a big cage, but just try fitting a Dane in a Doxie cage.
Not going to cage? Make sure you have some plan as to how to secure the dog in the vehicle. Some options include buckleing the wrist strap into the car, using a Carabiner hook to attach the leash to handles, seat belts, or metal hooks in the car, etc. Give enough slack on the leash so the dog can lay down comfortably, but not too much, because the last thing you want is the dog jumping into your lap while you're trying to drive.
3. Unsecured dog! - All it takes is one mistake... ALWAYS have the dog secured. I normally have one lead which secures the dog, and one which walks them so I NEVER have the dog off a lead. Opening the back hatch of a car or a door can be one of the most precarious points in a transport because the dog can slip under/through and is GONE if it is not in some way secured to the car. Think you can catch the dog? Have you seen a herding dog run? Don't risk it, always have the dog secured so even if you open the hatch and walk away, that dog is going NO WHERE. My second transport reminded me of this lesson because the leash I had him secured on was meant for a tiny dog and was cheap (thank you $1 store) and when his 40+ pounds of dog leapt out of the back hatch, he broke the cheap hook like I had tied him up with dental floss. Lucky me, the ping scared him and he paused and stared at me. After watching him play, later on, I realized how BAD that could have been if he had decided to run instead of freeze. Assume your dog is an escape artist, plan accordingly, and you probably wont have a problem.
Also, opening cage doors can be a rough point. Prevent escapes by locking the leash through the cage door (with plenty of slack) so you can have the leash on your wrist before you ever begin to open the door.
4. No Blanket/Sheet - If you are going to be transporting a dog outside of a crate (roaming the car) put down a sheet! Why? Well, crates are an enclosed environment where dogs do not want to eliminate because then they'd have to be close to it and/or stand in it. The open back of your car? Not so enclosed. Thus, put down a sheet (and possibly a tarp under it) to protect your car from possible accidents. This also makes cleaning up fur much easier!
5. Know your Doggy History - if you are transporting dogs who have not been socialized together successfully, or you are unsure if they have been socialized together successfully, put them in crates (not wire cages, not free in the car). Just because they seem to get along when you load them in the car does NOT mean they wont decide to hate each other right after you hit 60mph on the high way and start a fight. Crates keep the dogs from snapping or scratching at each other during the ride. Also, if you discover the dogs want to growl through the bars/vents at each other, think tweety bird and put a sheet/towel up to block their view.
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